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Originally posted by 76dragon
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You're on the wrong wagon.
Experiencing an aquatic renaissance! -
**throws brick to knock him off wagon**
You switch to Canon, then use an action shot witha diffused flash (IE Manual running man setting, PREFERABLY with a speedlight aimed away from the glass or up.) If you actually do photography, you could go with a f3.5 ISO800, and a speed of 1000. I have alot of luck shooting on the multiple bursts (rapidfire) settings.
Ah...i feel better, it's been so long since i could talk shop about cameras! :) thank you for that opportunity!140 New World Cichlids
125 African Lakes Victoria and Malawi
80 Lake Tanganyika (Burundi Frontosas)
30 Pundamilia Neyerie Ruti Island group
29 Tropical Semi Aggressive/Community
And to think....in January it was just the 29...
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::Jeebus throws a brick at your flash:: hehe..Originally posted by cichlidchic View Post**throws brick to knock him off wagon**
You switch to Canon, then use an action shot witha diffused flash (IE Manual running man setting, PREFERABLY with a speedlight aimed away from the glass or up.) If you actually do photography, you could go with a f3.5 ISO800, and a speed of 1000. I have alot of luck shooting on the multiple bursts (rapidfire) settings.
Ah...i feel better, it's been so long since i could talk shop about cameras! :) thank you for that opportunity!)
Just kidding. Good tips. I'm a "no-flash" kinda guy for aquarium shooting though.
With no flash, and only 35 watt 8k lighting on a 22" depth tank I use the following on my stock Canon XSi w/18-55mm AF:
- f3.5-4.5 Aperture (The more I zoom the smaller my aperture - which is true of any lens, which is why I recommend a fixed portrait/macro lens with f2.0 or better for aquarium shooting.)
- ISO1600 Film Speed (This is where the lens comes into play on the quality of the print. Because I'm using a stock lens with medial settings, no flash, poor lighting, AND fast moving objects - I'm forced to use my highest film speed setting.)
- 1/60th - 1/100th Shutter Speed (This is the setting I tune the most due to the conditions of the shoot.)
I too do burst shooting, then go picking through the pile for any winners. I'm hoping to eventually get better lenses, but for now I have to be happy with my stock set up.
FWIW - Eklikewhoa has the best tank to shoot that I've found so far. His lighting and tankscapes are very complimentary and make for easy shooting. Should it be no surprise?
Speaking of Ek.. Dude, what are you going to do with THAT much camera??
Just look what its little brother can do!Experiencing an aquatic renaissance!Comment
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i prefer not flash blinding my subjects, true, but I have very dim lighting, and I use a diffuser on a speedlight and kicker card to bounce the light from above and "illuminate" the tank, rather than the subject.
i stopped using flash when i blinded a peacock, and he just looks at me now and shakes his head...
140 New World Cichlids
125 African Lakes Victoria and Malawi
80 Lake Tanganyika (Burundi Frontosas)
30 Pundamilia Neyerie Ruti Island group
29 Tropical Semi Aggressive/Community
And to think....in January it was just the 29...)Comment
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Originally posted by cichlidchic View Posti prefer not flash blinding my subjects, true, but I have very dim lighting, and I use a diffuser on a speedlight and kicker card to bounce the light from above and "illuminate" the tank, rather than the subject.
i stopped using flash when i blinded a peacock, and he just looks at me now and shakes his head...
I know what you're saying about the flashes. Post some of your fish pics with those offset diffused flashes so we can see how they work.Experiencing an aquatic renaissance!Comment
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Overhead flash is the shizznit!
I've hearing about a MarkIII 5D and think I should wait for that.700g Mini-Monster tankComment
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