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  • eklikewhoa
    replied
    using thebaoster's 60D with the wireless flash in comparison to my old 30D, I agree with Thai... the wireless flash is a BEAST!

    My old tank was running 3x250wMH+4x96wPC so shooting with the 30D w/o wireless flash wasn't a big deal, trying to shoot in my new tank with without it I got maybe one decent post worthy photo out of hundreds.

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  • myjohnson
    replied
    Originally posted by SunnyHouTX View Post
    @Thai: Thanks for clearing it about the 60/2.8. Might have to get a 50/1.8 or 1.4 instead. Yeah, I'm using Jims 35/1.8 to get going. It's a lot harder to use on Trophs than I thought and I'm even finding it hard to get a sharp focus on my petros through 3/4" tank glass. Maybe I will have to go to 50mm to fix that?

    Getting the 50mm will not fix that. Does the d200 come with a little light in front of the camera? It's an AF assist light. If you don't have that then you might need more lights over your tank. Which tank is the one with 3/4" glass? What light do you have over it?

    I don't have any problems shooting on Brien's tank or mine. I have 3/4" acrylic. I think Brien has 1" or 3/4" glass. But we both have MH and CF over the tank.


    Wireless flash is something I'm considering for later when I get a good handle on the camera and lens.

    Trust me...I been down this road. The wireless flash is going to help you get a handle on your camera and lens a lot faster. Taking pictures of fast moving objects in low light sittings is one of the hardest things to do in photography.
    Originally posted by SunnyHouTX View Post
    I usually don't use the green dot setting LOL I went with 1/200 at ISO 800 and let the camera select F-stop. I like this shutter/ISO combo so next step is to go full manual and figure out F-stop that works best.
    How does the camera preform at ISO 800? Do you see a lot of noise? I was debating between your camera and the d90 when I first got my camera. I went with the d90 mainly b/c of the camera's performance at high ISO.

    Leave a comment:


  • SunnyHouTX
    replied
    Originally posted by ssrprelude View Post
    I told you its not easy!
    Finding this out now. My PnS camera made it too easy, but those weren't the best photos

    Originally posted by myjohnson View Post
    lol, dude.....don't shoot with it on the green dot.

    What are your settings? shutter speed, f-stop, and ISO?

    Shutter speed has to be at least 1/60 if you working with tropheus in low lighting. I prefer 1/200 or faster. Tropheus don't play, they move fast.
    I usually don't use the green dot setting LOL I went with 1/200 at ISO 800 and let the camera select F-stop. I like this shutter/ISO combo so next step is to go full manual and figure out F-stop that works best.

    Originally posted by photogdude View Post
    Well its been a while since i used the d200, but if there is a setting that will prevent the shutter from releasing unless it's focus locked use that. Also there should be a setting for continuous focus, and set it to use just one focus point.

    Also, since you have more than open tank, if its possible, take some lights from some other tanks and blast the tank your shooting with light. also try to shoot when its dark in the room.

    try the best you can to keep the camera parallel to the glass.
    I haven't found that focus lock shutter release setting yet, but I already have it in continuous focus mode. That's a great idea about increasing tank light amount. I'm running LED strips so that might be the problem. But I do get focus confirmation each time I click so I'm not sure what's going on.

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  • myjohnson
    replied
    Originally posted by photogdude View Post

    Also, since you have more than open tank, if its possible, take some lights from some other tanks and blast the tank your shooting with light. also try to shoot when its dark in the room.
    +1! Camera can't focus if it can't see what to focus on.

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  • myjohnson
    replied
    Originally posted by ssrprelude View Post
    I told you its not easy!

    lol, y'all ngas need to take it off the green dot.

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  • photogdude
    replied
    Well its been a while since i used the d200, but if there is a setting that will prevent the shutter from releasing unless it's focus locked use that. Also there should be a setting for continuous focus, and set it to use just one focus point.

    Also, since you have more than open tank, if its possible, take some lights from some other tanks and blast the tank your shooting with light. also try to shoot when its dark in the room.

    try the best you can to keep the camera parallel to the glass.

    Leave a comment:


  • myjohnson
    replied
    lol, dude.....don't shoot with it on the green dot.

    What are your settings? shutter speed, f-stop, and ISO?

    Shutter speed has to be at least 1/60 if you working with tropheus in low lighting. I prefer 1/200 or faster. Tropheus don't play, they move fast.
    Last edited by myjohnson; 04-20-2012, 02:26 PM.

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  • ssrprelude
    replied
    I told you its not easy!

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  • SunnyHouTX
    replied
    Thanks for all the input guys.

    @Soymilk and Marshall: thanks for catching that. Yes, I meant 60mm/2.8 and if it's a 2 stop difference, then the 50mm might be the ticket.

    @Thai: Thanks for clearing it about the 60/2.8. Might have to get a 50/1.8 or 1.4 instead. Yeah, I'm using Jims 35/1.8 to get going. It's a lot harder to use on Trophs than I thought and I'm even finding it hard to get a sharp focus on my petros through 3/4" tank glass. Maybe I will have to go to 50mm to fix that?

    Wireless flash is something I'm considering for later when I get a good handle on the camera and lens.

    Leave a comment:


  • photogdude
    replied
    +1 on the flash

    Leave a comment:


  • myjohnson
    replied
    @ sunny, I do have the nikkor 60/2.8. If we talking just fish stuff....its perfect for corals, shrimps, snails and slower fish. But for petros and tropheus you want a faster lens. 1.4f vs. 2.8 is a big deal when we are talking about tank lights. All purpose 50/1.4 or 35/1.8 over the 60/2.8. The auto focus on those lens are faster too.

    I would only get the 60/2.8 if you trying to do true macro work. There is also the need for a good tripod and head if you want to do it right.

    You got Jim's 35/1.8 right? See how you like it. I suggest wireless flash before the 60/2.8.

    Leave a comment:


  • soymilk
    replied
    I think he meant the 50mm f1.4 vs the 60mm f2.8. Thats 2 stops, I would pick the 50mm f1.4 over the 60mm f2.8 any given day of the week as an all purpose lens.

    85mm f1.8 is a great lens but I've always found it too telephoto on a crop sensor. But it's one of those things you just gotta try for yourself to see if you like it.

    Leave a comment:


  • sunkenmetal
    replied
    I want one of each lens lol

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  • R_sustaita
    replied
    ritz has a nice macro for about $400

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  • photogdude
    replied
    Originally posted by SunnyHouTX View Post
    Thanks Marshall. Can you recommend a certain lens for everyday use? 50 1.4? Or is the 60 1.8 good for that?
    either is fine, just remember no matter what, you will always wish you had something else.

    as far as the difference between 1.4 and 1.8 its only 2/3rd's of a stop, so depending on the price difference it might not be worth it.

    FYI i use a 60 2.8 macro quite a bit when i take the pics of my fishes.

    Leave a comment:

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