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Anyone know the correct position a distributor has to be when you install it? I know it has to be pointing at #1 but is there a certain way the distributor itself sits
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Anyone know the correct position a distributor has to be when you install it? I know it has to be pointing at #1 but is there a certain way the distributor itself sits
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Okay so today I decided to replace the tps AGAIN except I got a more expensive one. Turns out that's all I needed. 700$ later, it turns out to be a 27$ f***ing part. Excuse the language
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Ya I get what your saying but actually thought I had it right before because it worked for a while but then stoped worming againOriginally posted by eklikewhoa View PostI understand you wanna save some money but replacing parts till you finally replace something that makes the truck run doesn't sound like the most cost effective route to take.
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I understand you wanna save some money but replacing parts till you finally replace something that makes the truck run doesn't sound like the most cost effective route to take.
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that's another shot in the dark bro, resetting the memory is just gonna restart the cycle and if the fault or failure that caused those codes go dormant or doesn't show right away then you'll be spending money on a pcm that didn't need replacing.
The parameters in which some of those components or systems are allowed to fail before triggering a fault code are pretty wide, you could be screwing yourself even worse by erasing the codes.
Also the logic that if different codes pop up after resetting to determine a bad pcm is a very poor one, based on the information/history you've given about the symptoms.
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Everyone is saying ecm is out. I'm resetting the comp. to see if different ones come if so then it's the comp. But I get what your saying, I just feel I should save the 55$ an hour and do it my selfOriginally posted by eklikewhoa View PostAll those codes could have manifested from a single failure or fault, but the codes help with a starting point.
Not trying to sound like an asss but you would save a lot more money getting it done right to begin with. Stop throwing parts at it cause you could either end up replacing things not needed or creating even more problems in the process. With all the money spent on parts that didn't fix the truck you could have paid to have it diagnosed and have the problem pinpointed.
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All those codes could have manifested from a single failure or fault, but the codes help with a starting point.
Not trying to sound like an asss but you would save a lot more money getting it done right to begin with. Stop throwing parts at it cause you could either end up replacing things not needed or creating even more problems in the process. With all the money spent on parts that didn't fix the truck you could have paid to have it diagnosed and have the problem pinpointed.
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Means you needs to get the thing properly diagnose to see what is the culprit setting off those codes.
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Okay here are the codes I got today on doing the obd self test.
(R) = Engine Running test (M) = Memory code (O)=Key On Engine Off test
121
(O,R,M)
Throttle Position (TP) sensor out of range - TPS
334
(O,R,M)
EVP sensor is/was high - EVR
452
(M)
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) problem
542
(O,M)
Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
628
(M)
Excessive converter clutch slippage - Transmissions
634
(O,M)
Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault Electronic shift transmission - Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor out of range in Park-Transmissions
Does anyone know what these mean?
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If the timing is off even by a hair, will it cause the truck to turn off?
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My uncle is also a AAA certified mechanic. Dude worked for Ford for a few years and got the big head and opened his own shop without many customers and then started working for airlines, fixing on aircrafts. Not sure where he is these days.
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He retired years ago. Name is Williard Limontas. He's from the islands. Good mechanic but he's about 60 now, in good shape, but he just does repairs from home now.
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Who do you know at metro? was it from Transit?
I know quite a few people from there... some worldwide ASE certified techs which is pretty boss
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You want the number to my mechanic? He retired from Metro, fixing the buses. Whenever my Saturn did that, it was always the alternator.
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