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90 Gallon S.A. Discus/Pleco Tank Journal

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  • jeebus
    replied
    Originally posted by Complexity View Post
    Since you're going with plants, you need to get lights for plants. What our eyes see is not necessarily what the plants need.
    Well, technically the plants are secondary to the Discus. They are the reason for the tank. We just added plants to enhance their tankscape.

    As for the dry ferts you do make it sound easy, but for now I'm just gonna keep giving HAW my money!

    Leave a comment:


  • myjohnson
    replied
    Originally posted by jeebus View Post
    I am interested in dry ferts - they just seem a little more intimidating. Right now buying the liquid ferts from HAW is not only easy but it makes me feel better that I'm supporting a local mom & pop.
    Yeah dude, I used dry ferts and it worked really good for me. There is a chart somewhere that tells you want day you need to use which. I'll post a link if you don't have one already and assuming I find it. My planted tanks days are long over.

    Leave a comment:


  • myjohnson
    replied
    Originally posted by jeebus View Post
    Not offended. Once everything grows in it should balance itself - keyword being should.
    Jack up that CO2 and dump some ferts in there and those plants are going to take off!

    Leave a comment:


  • Complexity
    replied
    Originally posted by jeebus View Post
    Still on the fence about the lights. I want to leave the Actinic because of what it does for the blue luminescence of the Discus. I might pick up another 10k and a 6.7k to replace the two 12k's I've got now. I think that will brighten the tank more and push some more beneficial light into the tank.
    Since you're going with plants, you need to get lights for plants. What our eyes see is not necessarily what the plants need.

    I am interested in dry ferts - they just seem a little more intimidating.
    I can help you get started, if you want. It's actually not intimidating once you do it. Here's basically what's involved.

    Get a measuring spoon.
    Dip spoon in the dry ferts.
    Pull out spoon with ferts.
    Dump ferts in tank.
    Done.

    That's it. All that's needed is to know which size measuring spoon and which dry ferts, but there are standardized charts for that. It's truly as easy as putting sugar in coffee.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeebus
    replied
    Not offended. Once everything grows in it should balance itself - keyword being should.

    Leave a comment:


  • myjohnson
    replied
    hmmmm, I'm always drinking when I'm on the box.

    Didn't mean to offend you or anything. It was just IMHO.

    You can still go for the whole "riverbed - bank - treeline" effect and still have the tank better balanced.

    When scaping any type of tank you want to follow the "golden rule." In shot its a focal point that draw the viewer's gaze.
    To achieve this you need to set up a focus point.

    It is the point that draws the gaze of the viewer first, from which they can explore the rest of the tank. Normally there is only one in a tank and it's something that stands out like the big tree trunk you got. The golden ratio is 1:1.6. Which is a little left or right of center.

    This ratio is not only for scaping but was actually developed by the ancient geeks when they were creating the nude statues, among other their art works.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeebus
    replied
    Originally posted by myjohnson View Post
    Tanks looks rightside heavy.
    Try NOT drinking before browsing the box.





    j/k.. its supposed to look that way. I'm going for the whole "riverbed - bank - treeline" effect: rocks, short grass, medium plants, tall stump. I wanted to have a large open area for the discus at feeding time and this layout helps hide my equipment.

    I haven't trimmed the runners on anything growing yet, only because this is the first time since we've added the co2 that we've seen the growth, and we're just too fascinated by it lol..

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  • myjohnson
    replied
    Tanks looks rightside heavy.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeebus
    replied
    Originally posted by Complexity View Post
    Replace the actinic blue for another 10K
    Still on the fence about the lights. I want to leave the Actinic because of what it does for the blue luminescence of the Discus. I might pick up another 10k and a 6.7k to replace the two 12k's I've got now. I think that will brighten the tank more and push some more beneficial light into the tank.

    Your next upgrade, add on a pH controller and get a drop checker.
    Yeah.... eventually lol...

    I strongly recommend that you look into using dry ferts. Not only are they much better, but they're also much cheaper. The difference will be incredible. With the CO2 already in place, you'd then have everything you need to grow the plants to their best.
    I am interested in dry ferts - they just seem a little more intimidating. Right now buying the liquid ferts from HAW is not only easy but it makes me feel better that I'm supporting a local mom & pop.

    Leave a comment:


  • Complexity
    replied
    Originally posted by jeebus View Post
    T5 HO 4 Bulb - (2) 12k, (1) 10k, (1) Actinic Blue
    Replace the actinic blue for another 10K
    54 Watts x 4 = 216 / 90 Gallons = 2.4 Watts Per Gallon
    Photo-period of 12 hours
    Good lighting, but a really long photoperiod. Watch for algae.

    Co2 PPM = Unknown
    Co2 Bubble-counter "bubbles per second" = 2
    Co2-period of 10 hours via direct-injection to filter
    Your next upgrade, add on a pH controller and get a drop checker.

    Seachem Ferts:
    Flourish - 2 capfuls x 2 weekly
    Potasium - 3 capfuls x 2 weekly
    Iron - 2 capfuls x 2 weekly
    Root-tabs bi-monthly
    I strongly recommend that you look into using dry ferts. Not only are they much better, but they're also much cheaper. The difference will be incredible. With the CO2 already in place, you'd then have everything you need to grow the plants to their best.

    Leave a comment:


  • Complexity
    replied
    Looks really nice! The CO2 will make a huge difference. Are you adding ferts, too? Oops, skimmed over the details. I see you listed your ferts already.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeebus
    replied
    Thanks guys. I can't find the words to fully say how impressed I've been with adding co2 to this tank. The nearly neon/electric shade of green the plants all are now is amazing. Even the the individual hairs from the Dwarf Hair-grass all glow. Really amazing. Hopefully within the next few months everything will grow in and we'll be set.

    Leave a comment:


  • mgarrido
    replied
    Looks good Glen

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  • Darbex
    replied
    looks good

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  • jeebus
    replied
    Here are our settings:

    T5 HO 4 Bulb - (2) 12k, (1) 10k, (1) Actinic Blue
    54 Watts x 4 = 216 / 90 Gallons = 2.4 Watts Per Gallon
    Photo-period of 12 hours

    Co2 PPM = Unknown
    Co2 Bubble-counter "bubbles per second" = 2
    Co2-period of 10 hours via direct-injection to filter

    Water Changes of 75% every four to seven days (depending on schedule)

    Filtered with an Eheim 2262 with bio-balls and filter-floss. No ceramics, porcelain, bio-bale, or carbon.

    Seachem Ferts:
    Flourish - 2 capfuls x 2 weekly
    Potasium - 3 capfuls x 2 weekly
    Iron - 2 capfuls x 2 weekly
    Root-tabs bi-monthly

    Flora:
    Sagittaria
    Compact Amazon Sword
    Tiger Lotus
    Dwarf Hair-grass

    Fauna:
    9 "Tiger" Turquoise Discus
    1 Bristlenose Pleco
    1 Galaxy Pleco
    1 Green Phantom Pleco
    4 Rummynose Tetra (soon to be 20+)

    At this point all we're looking to add is some more Rummynoses, and perhaps later some cories and rams. Pretty happy with the results of adding co2 so far.
    Last edited by jeebus; 01-01-2010, 05:34 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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