Thinking of CO2 now...

[RussGB]

So in my 150 fish and plants tank, I have jsut finished upgrading my lighting system. I am only runing 8 of the 12 tubes  (39w T5 ) right now, and I don't want to go any brighter. Its already brighter than my old CF lights were (and they were 4 x 96w).

Before I switch on all the tubes I think I am going to need CO2. I am thinking probably a timer system, with a reactor inline after my cannister filter out through my submerged spray bar.

It looks like  a reasonable system with regulator, timer etc all in is going to be about $120. How much will a 20lb bottle cost new? Luckily I seem to be surrounded by welding supply places.

Don't spose anyone has some or any of this gear for sale do they?

[finfan]

Re: Thinking of CO2 now...

never had CO2, can't help you there, but good luck

[HoustonFishFanatic]

Re: Thinking of CO2 now...

Check with Dan at Houston Aquarium warehouse . I think he can get you the set up at a good price.

[wesleydnunder]

Re: Thinking of CO2 now...

A welding shop is a good place to buy your tank, IMO. Not sure how much a 20# is. I bought my regulator/solenoid/needle valve set up from Mike and Jeff at ADG. I paid more than you will for a Milwaukee rig but my thinking was, ADG has to have reliability and long-term use from their equipment, so it would be worth it to me to use the same stuff. Almost 5 yrs later it's still working great.

Some folks advocate leaving the CO2 on 24/7. No solenoid is needed in that case. I turn mine off when the lights are off as there's no need for CO2 when the lights are off and there are, IMO, potential problems with CO2 concentrations getting too high during the dark hours when plants aren't using it and are actually releasing CO2 back into the water. Tom Barr and the plant guru team recommend turning the CO2 on and off with a separate timer from the lights. They suggest turning the CO2 on two hours before the lights come on and off one hour before lights out.

You also might want to look up something called "end of tank dump". It's when the last of the liquid CO2 in the tank has converted to gas. The high side pressure at the regulator begins to drop and the low pressure side rises, resulting in more CO2 being released into the aquarium with potentially deadly results.

Also, IMO, a brass check valve in the CO2 line is a must. If your CO2 tank empties and low side pressure drops to zero, water can flow back up the CO2 line into the regulator and ruin it. A check valve prevents this from happening. You may want to check out Rex Grigg . com and look at some of the equipment he sells for CO2. He has some very good regulator set ups, clippard valves and check valves, as well as lots of other stuff for CO2.

Mark