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Okay. Had to read that about 3 times, but I think I get what you're saying.
So, my needle valve is at the bottom right of the bubble counter, correct? (Please don't laugh at me if I'm totally off, lol.)
Did I circle the needle valve in red in the picture below? That's what I've been adjusting, mainly. It takes about 1/69th of a turn to make a difference between no bubbles and tons o' bubbles. Does that mean that it's adjusting itself, and I should replace it with something that takes a whole turn to produce tons o' bubbles, for instance?
"The valve seat also has to be cut as fine as the needle to work properly. " Yeah, absolutely no idea what you said there.
If the threads on a needle valve are loose or too coarse the adjustment won't be fine enough, or stay steady. The finer the threads, the more turns to span the adjustment. It can be the difference between trying to get 1/32 of a turn for 2 bps versus 1/4 of a turn to get 2 bps. The valve seat also has to be cut as fine as the needle to work properly.
I'd try to get a good replacement valve; maybe a Clippard if you can't get one of the teledynes.
Regardless if it's Milwaukee or some other brand, I really kinda spent all I had to get this tank up and running finally. I'm assuming replacing/fixing the needle valve is the best option for me.
With that in mind, any advice from anyone would be great. Can you fix a needle valve? Or do you just have to replace it? What exactly goes wrong when the needle valve stops working properly?
I'd scrap the milwaukee crap altogether MB. The Teledyne set up that I bought from y'all worked flawlessly and the needle valve is rock-solid. I never did care for milwaukee stuff.
I'm quite frustrated with the CO2. Almost every day I have to adjust it. The fluctuations are heaven for algae. :( And I've had 4 amano shrimp deaths so far - not sure why. :( I really need to figure out why the CO2's not staying set where it should be.
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