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  • eklikewhoa
    replied
    Honestly I wouldn't have bothered trying to put them in a breeder, danios are egg scatters so unless you have mops or a patch of fine grass the eggs would get eaten and having them in a breeder won't make much difference as far fry survival.

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  • Chris.d514
    replied
    For future attempts would you place both in the box or how does that work?

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  • mnemenoi
    replied
    I'd honestly let them be for their first run, if that is what is going on. Once you determine its a pair then you can decide what you wish to do about future breeding attempts.

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  • holly.d514
    replied
    I went after work and bought the breeder net for out Zebra who is pregnant. I'm sure Chris has mention this to you. He is at school so he can't ask, but I went and put the prego in the breeder box and she seemed scared, so I took the big male and put him in there. Is this ok or should I take him out? Doesn't he have to fertilize the eggs once she lays them. I'm so lost when it comes to this. Thanks!

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  • mnemenoi
    replied
    It does certainly give you a starting point, lighting can be complicated and there are 100 different ways to get the same effect. Without going into crazy details, spectrum can be important and that is usually on your bulb (1000-10,000K) Intensity can as well given in watts (i.e. 15watts). There are a variety of other factors, but suffice it to say you have a standard fluorescent? (it would way rock if you had incandescent...as they are easy upgrades..) Most can support low light plants and we can take it from there. You can always upgrade later, especially when someone on here is looking to get rid of an older fixture. By that time you'll have your feet wet and will have a far better understanding of what you want and why. Looking over planted tank lighting explanations can help and ask away if you don't fully grasp the reasons why. Here is a decent start for understanding

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  • Chris.d514
    replied
    I just asked and the hood is just a standard hood. Looks like the one that came in the kit for my 14 gallon. If that helps at all.

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  • eklikewhoa
    replied
    There you go!

    I would get it from their cichlid tank or the fahaka tank since there's a good bio-load there.

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  • Chris.d514
    replied
    Lookslater andMnemenoi said that they should have something that I could get this weekend.

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  • eklikewhoa
    replied
    Well if you can find someone nearby once you get it going it will really be beneficial to you and your tank

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  • Chris.d514
    replied
    Not sure yet I am getting the tank and hood from another member here and don't know yet what it has.

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  • Totenkampf
    replied
    Originally posted by eklikewhoa View Post
    Correct, it does take some time to colonize beneficial bacteria a few weeks minimum.

    What you could do though is find someone close by and help them clean their filters and score some dirty filter padding.
    +1 to dirty filter pads or even the (yuck) squeezings from some.

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  • Totenkampf
    replied
    Originally posted by eklikewhoa View Post
    They in fact could go together and quite efficiently too. but for your 14g that would be.... can't believe I'm saying this.... it will be overkill.
    No! Next you will tell him NOT to do a 98% WC

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  • mnemenoi
    replied
    You can use just sand, though a planted substrate can help. They can be pricey and it would need to have been added first, I'd just go with sand for now. Liquid Fertilizers can help, but there are quite a plethora of them and each has its specifically targeted area of assistance. A general fert like Flourish or Root tabs can help, but I'd suggest using them sparingly. What type of lighting do you have on the tank? It will certainly help us to know what you could grow in the tank.

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  • Chris.d514
    replied
    With wanting to plant the 10 gallon can I use just sand as a sub or do i need something else? Also should I get any new water additives?

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  • Chris.d514
    replied
    Back in the tank it goes.

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