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  • SunnyHouTX
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  • Notsoballinxhobo
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    Originally posted by cu0ngsayz View Post
    K1/3 and bioballs are basically the same if used in a canister. Yes it was made to run in a fluidized bed so the old dead Bactria will fall off the surface of the k1/3 to make room for new bacteria to grow in its place. Running it in a canister or as a replacement for bio balls doesn't mean it doesn't work or defeats the purpose. It still works.
    I never said that it won't work as bio-media but so will rocks, sponges, lavarock, straws, pvc, your dirty draws, etc.
    My point was that using it in a stagnant or a non-fluidized state would defeat it's main purpose or selling point which also would be an expensive route to take when considering that it will not be used to it's full potential.

    If media for a canister filter was topic of discussion then in that case I would like to submit my opinion if that is ok with the leet here, Matrix/pond matrix or sintered glass rings would be a much better option than kaldness or bioballs. There is more surface area in comparison which would allow for more hosting within a smaller amount of area. So in that sense, more bang for your buck as well as limited space constraints.

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  • SunnyHouTX
    replied
    Originally posted by Notsoballinxhobo View Post
    once again, my level of experience shouldn't be based on my post count or registered date.

    So bro, if you are really trying to question my experience or insult my level of intelligence please do your research or only chime in when you feel you are absolutely sure or willing to accept where you are wrong.

    http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showth...-4-types&pp=10
    So let's get this straight: it's ok for you to question our experience to qualify our answers but it's a no-no the other way around? LOL, GTFO dude.

    Originally posted by Notsoballinxhobo View Post
    Please see above link

    Level of experience, I will base off of lack of knowledge shown.
    See, now you're playing semantics. "Used to make" is not the same as "they make".

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  • cu0ngsayz
    replied
    K1/3 and bioballs are basically the same if used in a canister. Yes it was made to run in a fluidized bed so the old dead Bactria will fall off the surface of the k1/3 to make room for new bacteria to grow in its place. Running it in a canister or as a replacement for bio balls doesn't mean it doesn't work or defeats the purpose. It still works.

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  • Notsoballinxhobo
    replied
    Originally posted by SunnyHouTX View Post
    I guess we're at a stalemate then, mate.

    Unless I "induce failure" on one of sumps with a hammer. That would be dumb, so I won't.
    There are multiple points that could fail in the wet/dry system outside of the obvious "put a hammer to it". I guess I am the only one that thinks so

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  • Notsoballinxhobo
    replied
    Originally posted by SunnyHouTX View Post
    They don't Somebody thinks they do though
    Please see above link

    Level of experience, I will base off of lack of knowledge shown.

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  • Notsoballinxhobo
    replied
    Originally posted by cu0ngsayz View Post
    I don't think hea had experience with much since he did say k1/k2/k3. I didn't even know they made k2
    once again, my level of experience shouldn't be based on my post count or registered date.

    So bro, if you are really trying to question my experience or insult my level of intelligence please do your research or only chime in when you feel you are absolutely sure or willing to accept where you are wrong.

    This past week I called "Water Management Technologies Inc." as I found they had Kaldness listed. I spoke with Greg Beckman and we had a nice chat. I was discussing my filtration system with him and he made me stop and rethink my system, but thats not the reason for this thread. He has an extensive background in water quality via fish farming I belive. They also have some very interesting High end systems for filtration. He graciously sent me 4 packets with 4 different media types.

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  • SunnyHouTX
    replied
    Originally posted by cu0ngsayz View Post
    I don't think hea had experience with much since he did say k1/k2/k3. I didn't even know they made k2
    They don't Somebody thinks they do though

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  • SunnyHouTX
    replied
    Originally posted by Notsoballinxhobo View Post
    based on?
    Perhaps you are afraid of being wrong, so please do set them up as you normally would with your other tanks and then see. I fear very little in this world so a box of water and plastic is probably not gonna be that high on the list.
    Based on the wet/drys I've set up over the last couple of years with no failure whatsoever. So if I set this one up as a second wet/dry in the same tank, then I expect the same: no failures.

    I guess we're at a stalemate then, mate.

    Unless I "induce failure" on one of sumps with a hammer. That would be dumb, so I won't.
    Last edited by SunnyHouTX; 07-21-2012, 12:14 PM.

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  • cu0ngsayz
    replied
    I don't think hea had experience with much since he did say k1/k2/k3. I didn't even know they made k2

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  • Notsoballinxhobo
    replied
    Originally posted by SunnyHouTX View Post
    I already know what's gonna happen: nothing.

    Looks like you're afraid of wet/dry filters?
    based on?
    Perhaps you are afraid of being wrong, so please do set them up as you normally would with your other tanks and then see. I fear very little in this world so a box of water and plastic is probably not gonna be that high on the list.

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  • Notsoballinxhobo
    replied
    The point of K1 is cause its ability to build a strong bacteria colony when fluidized, having it sit stagnant is like having a ton of cut up straws in your wet/dry which would be a ton cheaper.

    As for pedestal, I have only subjected info from my knowledge base from personal and gathered. You fail to see it any other way but your own so please step back and look at that again.

    I am no one to tell anything but if the opinion is asked for then I provided it, if this was not meant to be an open discussion then maybe have it deleted or change the title to "Sunny's opinion on wet/dry media".

    The kaldness was designed to be used fluidized, yes it will work in any which way you please but to achieve the best it should be used how it was meant to be used. If you decided to pay extra for the K1 and use it in the same sense anything with a surface could achieve then by all means ball hard and do so.

    As for lack of experience, I will leave that for you to judge which I am sure you are basing it off purely my registered date here or perhaps my lack of post count and not by my actual experience cause I assure you that it is not lacking nor shadowed by many.

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  • SunnyHouTX
    replied
    Originally posted by Notsoballinxhobo View Post
    If you use the k1 as the media is used in a wet/dry you have defeated the main selling point of the k1
    If you use the k1 as it was meant to be used in a "wet/dry" you have now taken away the "wet/dry" aspect and it is now just a tub of water/a sump.

    So to repeat myself, a waste of both when used outside it's original intentions.
    Who are you to say how one should use media in our filters and what constitutes a waste? Spend your own money and figure it out for yourself hobo. Trust me, I won't be calling it a waste as long as you're not spending my money on it. Dang, you build a pretty high pedestal for yourself dontcha )

    BTW, if the water trickles through K1/K3 media in a wet/dry, it's still a wet/dry. Something tells me you lack experience with wet/dry filtration and can't seem to grasp it for what it is since you may have not tried it?

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  • SunnyHouTX
    replied
    Originally posted by Notsoballinxhobo View Post
    Please do.

    Test it and report back what happens in the event of a failure in any part.
    I already know what's gonna happen: nothing.

    Looks like you're afraid of wet/dry filters?

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  • SunnyHouTX
    replied
    Originally posted by Notsoballinxhobo View Post
    I am not speaking of bacteria or nutrients.

    I am plainly talking about water and where it gets moved to.

    OK, so since we're only talking about water movement only, read this very carefully:

    The only problem I see in this is the second wet/dry overflowing if it doesn't have adequate sump space to handle the runoff from the main tank that now has the water of the wet/dry that ran dry. In this case, only the bacteria in the first wet/dry will die if not rectified immediately.

    water are in three jugs... the tank, wet/dry1 and wet/dry2
    Water level in tank will only change if both overflows feeding 1 and 2 are lost.
    Water level in wd1 is effected by not only the tank but also wd2
    just examples of the point I am trying to make.

    Again, read this very carefully:

    The only problem I see in this is the second wet/dry overflowing if it doesn't have adequate sump space to handle the runoff from the main tank that now has the water of the wet/dry that ran dry. In this case, only the bacteria in the first wet/dry will die if not rectified immediately.

    This is what I am talking about. As for the dumb part, not inducing a failure or testing your set up as to what will happen in an event of a failure to be prepared is what is called dumb. Invest the time and money into your hobby especially if you have spent your hard earned cash on it. Your comment here shows your level of experience or willingness to learn.

    By inducing failure, I assumed that you were talking about inducing failure of the bacteria colony, since your initial concern was the usage of K1/K3 media vs. bioballs. But now that we're only talking about water levels, the only real failure you can be ready for that will affect water levels is a power outage and yes, I do a "power out" test when I initially set a wet/dry and I assume anybody who has a wet/dry does it as well. What other failures are you talking about? Besides a power outage, the only failures I can think of will be due to improper installation, ans I can't help you on that.
    My answers in red

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