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  • #31
    Well its been a while since i used the d200, but if there is a setting that will prevent the shutter from releasing unless it's focus locked use that. Also there should be a setting for continuous focus, and set it to use just one focus point.

    Also, since you have more than open tank, if its possible, take some lights from some other tanks and blast the tank your shooting with light. also try to shoot when its dark in the room.

    try the best you can to keep the camera parallel to the glass.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by ssrprelude View Post
      I told you its not easy!

      lol, y'all ngas need to take it off the green dot.
      I ate my fish that died.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by photogdude View Post

        Also, since you have more than open tank, if its possible, take some lights from some other tanks and blast the tank your shooting with light. also try to shoot when its dark in the room.
        +1! Camera can't focus if it can't see what to focus on.
        I ate my fish that died.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by ssrprelude View Post
          I told you its not easy!
          Finding this out now. My PnS camera made it too easy, but those weren't the best photos

          Originally posted by myjohnson View Post
          lol, dude.....don't shoot with it on the green dot.

          What are your settings? shutter speed, f-stop, and ISO?

          Shutter speed has to be at least 1/60 if you working with tropheus in low lighting. I prefer 1/200 or faster. Tropheus don't play, they move fast.
          I usually don't use the green dot setting LOL I went with 1/200 at ISO 800 and let the camera select F-stop. I like this shutter/ISO combo so next step is to go full manual and figure out F-stop that works best.

          Originally posted by photogdude View Post
          Well its been a while since i used the d200, but if there is a setting that will prevent the shutter from releasing unless it's focus locked use that. Also there should be a setting for continuous focus, and set it to use just one focus point.

          Also, since you have more than open tank, if its possible, take some lights from some other tanks and blast the tank your shooting with light. also try to shoot when its dark in the room.

          try the best you can to keep the camera parallel to the glass.
          I haven't found that focus lock shutter release setting yet, but I already have it in continuous focus mode. That's a great idea about increasing tank light amount. I'm running LED strips so that might be the problem. But I do get focus confirmation each time I click so I'm not sure what's going on.
          http://www.facebook.com/DAScolorado

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          • #35
            Originally posted by SunnyHouTX View Post
            @Thai: Thanks for clearing it about the 60/2.8. Might have to get a 50/1.8 or 1.4 instead. Yeah, I'm using Jims 35/1.8 to get going. It's a lot harder to use on Trophs than I thought and I'm even finding it hard to get a sharp focus on my petros through 3/4" tank glass. Maybe I will have to go to 50mm to fix that?

            Getting the 50mm will not fix that. Does the d200 come with a little light in front of the camera? It's an AF assist light. If you don't have that then you might need more lights over your tank. Which tank is the one with 3/4" glass? What light do you have over it?

            I don't have any problems shooting on Brien's tank or mine. I have 3/4" acrylic. I think Brien has 1" or 3/4" glass. But we both have MH and CF over the tank.


            Wireless flash is something I'm considering for later when I get a good handle on the camera and lens.

            Trust me...I been down this road. The wireless flash is going to help you get a handle on your camera and lens a lot faster. Taking pictures of fast moving objects in low light sittings is one of the hardest things to do in photography.
            Originally posted by SunnyHouTX View Post
            I usually don't use the green dot setting LOL I went with 1/200 at ISO 800 and let the camera select F-stop. I like this shutter/ISO combo so next step is to go full manual and figure out F-stop that works best.
            How does the camera preform at ISO 800? Do you see a lot of noise? I was debating between your camera and the d90 when I first got my camera. I went with the d90 mainly b/c of the camera's performance at high ISO.
            I ate my fish that died.

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            • #36
              using thebaoster's 60D with the wireless flash in comparison to my old 30D, I agree with Thai... the wireless flash is a BEAST!

              My old tank was running 3x250wMH+4x96wPC so shooting with the 30D w/o wireless flash wasn't a big deal, trying to shoot in my new tank with without it I got maybe one decent post worthy photo out of hundreds.
              700g Mini-Monster tank

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              • #37
                D200 is almost like my d2x except it has the cmos sensor. At 800 noise is there but still alright. Any higher than that and it will be too grainy.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by myjohnson View Post
                  How does the camera preform at ISO 800? Do you see a lot of noise? I was debating between your camera and the d90 when I first got my camera. I went with the d90 mainly b/c of the camera's performance at high ISO.
                  800 has a little noise in some photo, but I think that's because I have so little light in my tanks (enough for me though ). My 280 petro tanks is the one with the 3/4" and that's the one I've got issues with. Might also because the glass is hazy?

                  Yup, just turned the focus assist light on. Not much difference there.

                  Good advise on the flash. Will look for on ASAP.
                  http://www.facebook.com/DAScolorado

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                  • #39
                    If the d200 is like the d2x then I assume it does not have on-board flash correct?
                    I ate my fish that died.

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                    • #40
                      It's got onboard flash
                      http://www.facebook.com/DAScolorado

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                      • #41
                        http://www.facebook.com/DAScolorado

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                        • #42
                          Only pro bodies have no on board flash.

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                          • #43
                            When shoting thru thick glass try to keep the camera perpendicular to the tank. Keep shutter speed 1/60 or above, push ISO to 800 or 1600. Then change your auto focus points to just the center. Makes focusing on fast things a lot easier, usually the center sensor is the best one.

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                            • #44
                              Good start!

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by soymilk View Post
                                When shoting thru thick glass try to keep the camera perpendicular to the tank. Keep shutter speed 1/60 or above, push ISO to 800 or 1600. Then change your auto focus points to just the center. Makes focusing on fast things a lot easier, usually the center sensor is the best one.
                                Yeah, ISO is between 800 - 1600 depending, shutter at 125 or faster and focus point is set to the center. F-stop at 1.8 - 2.8. Working on keeping the lens perpendicular to glass. Harder to do with eye on eyecup
                                http://www.facebook.com/DAScolorado

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