starting salt

[myjohnson]

Hmmmmm, out of those 3 options I like two AI the best. I like the AI and the radion bc you can control the the bulb output, in effect controlling the k-rating. It's like having all the bulb colors at your finger tips. One radion will not work unless you are going for a minimalist look and only have corals under the light.

I can also help with tank set up. :)

[Darbex]

Tim you know you can call me up to help. Just has to be after this week. Super busy at work this week in fact I just got off.

[ometh]

Okay . . . I finally have everything except the plumbing. I have 4 x 36" HO T5 . . . but I don't like the look of it. I was looking into other lighting options.

Looking at 2 Kessil LEDs or 2 AI Nano . . . or possibly 1 Radion . . . but don't know if that will work. Thoughts?

Oh yeah, who wants to help me plumb this thing after finals next week so that I can get it up and running?

You might want to look into taotronics Tim. I keep reading that they par on with some of the high end fixtures and best bang for buck deal. $150 for a good quality led is more then a steal and trustpick off of eBay offer customization of white to blue ratio. I'm ordering mine next week so if you're interested I'll keep you posted.

[Darbex]

I personally say go MH or combo with T5. I like the spread and look better but thats just me.

[ometh]

It really just comes down to your own personal preference. First time I saw the Tao LEDs in action I was taken by them and I will probably never look back unless I get radions.

[armthehomeless]

Hmmmmm, out of those 3 options I like two AI the best. I like the AI and the radion bc you can control the the bulb output, in effect controlling the k-rating. It's like having all the bulb colors at your finger tips. One radion will not work unless you are going for a minimalist look and only have corals under the light.

I can also help with tank set up. :)

Is there something not in those three options that you'd do?

I think we'll have a salty setup party at my place in the next month. Y'all let me know when you all are free.

[myjohnson]

Is there something not in those three options that you'd do?

Nope. All three options are good. However, do note there are limitations to LEDs which can only be over come by coral placement. LEDs are very directional in their par output. They have no where near the par spread of a MH. If you have a fixture by the time we set up the tank, I can test the par for you.

I should be getting a par meter soon. Also, I know two people selling two AI fixtures with controller and hanggjng kit. Text me if you want their info. :)

[Darbex]

Dude I need to borrow your par meter. But like Thai said that is why I do MH, the par rating drops fast outside the light which is good in a way because it doesnt waste light output but this means you need more of them and at their current cost its a little steep. As an example I would need about 6 100W LED cannons on my tank to do about the same as my 3 MH do but the wattage is 600w compared to 800w. But the LED cannons are $3000 for all 6 where as the MH are about $1800 for my Coralife Pro. And my coverage is about the same under the MH as it is a few inches from it.

[aquabee]

Is there something not in those three options that you'd do?

I think we'll have a salty setup party at my place in the next month. Y'all let me know when you all are free.

Well I'm not salty but I'll help Fi with the crepes!

[sunkenmetal]

I can cut PVC like a mofo... Chop saw FTW

[Bedlamer]

The metal halide is the tried and true solution. There are other advantages to the LEDs. Due to spectrum shift the MH bulbs are usually changed out every 9-12 months at about $80 a piece for the 250 watt ones. The LEDS maintain a constant spectrum, and are rated for about 50,000 hours. The fancier LEDs allow you to manipulate the spectrum output to best suit your needs. If you are worried about light shocking new corals, instead of adjusting your photo period or changing the distance of the corals in your tank from the light (actually not too hard if you use a magnetically held frag rack) you just program in a gradually increasing intensity over say a two week period. The MHs produce much more heat and depending on your tank and its equipment and the temp of your fish room, you may have to run a fan(s) or a chiller or reduce the photo period to control temps. One of the local guys from MARSH I met, built an out building fish room and put a 400 w MH over one of the tanks. It caused the building to burn down that week. I have no idea about the other particulars of his instal, and I'm sure tens of thousands of people run those bulbs with no issues--but it won't be an option for *me* if I ever get around to doing a SW tank.

As an added bonus if you get something like the Vortech/Radion combo its got wireless control and you can try and induce seizures in your friends by setting up a rapidly flashing thunderstorm program to fire off once they are standing up right next to your tank and peering intently into it.

[Darbex]

I ran 3x 400w MH on my tank before no issues other than it draining 1Kw an hour. He probably screwed something up or a faulty fixture. But yes LEDs long run are cheaper but until they fix the optics I won't go LEDs again

[myjohnson]

If you wire a LED fixture wrong...it can burn your house down too.

[Bedlamer]

I've been trying to remember the conversation. If I remember correctly the guy attributed the fire to the tremendous heat generated by the bulb, not an electrical issue. If I talk to him again I'll ask him for more details--and yes even a run of the mill 60 watt incandescent can start a fire due to heat if you do something improper with it.

[TiAg]

I've had a radion running on my 30" deep tank for the last few weeks and my corals are quite happy. No bleaching on my 2 SPS and softies/lps/clam are all happy. Took off a MH 250W and the heat difference is noticeable.