they make surface skimmers you can hook up to your canisters....
thats funny, thats also your thread.....
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Possible to install an overflow without drilling?
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My reason for doing this is a thin floating film on the top of my tank. The more I think about it, no overflow with a cannister is going to solve this.
The only way I know of to remove a film like this is to "float" it out like you do in a sump.
Has anyone had success in solving my problem using and overflow and cannister and not with a sump?
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I have an HOB overflow box made by a company called CPR and it works excellent. Very quiet and they have different sizes for your application. I bought it at marinedepot.com. Mostly all good reviews although some people had trouble I find thats the case with almost anything if you reasearch hard enough. Mine has been perfect. It doesnt use a utube design, instead relying on a small pump to keep siphon which is supposedly more reliable and much less picky over fluctuating water levels.
My wetdry and sump setup will last a week, then I do my water change so I dont need to top off my tank either. I have the CPR CR3000 wetdry and sump, running an eheim 1262 pump and Im happy with it.
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right .... if you just run the intake all the way to the bottom of the tank it will contiue to syphon until it drains your tank to the level of the intake what you need is the u shape. what you have to do is get a way to break the syphon. check out gottis tank similar concept even though his drains from holes in the bottom of the tank
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I don't follow... Are you saying it would continue to syphon even with the pump off?Originally posted by cichlid1409 View Postsomething like this stays primed
or if you want to prime it
also with your design you would have to run the pipe up the back of the outside of the tank to just below the water line, then drill a hole a put an airhole, otherwise it will keep a constant syphon if you run it straight you sump
which is fine and works....just a heads up
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something like this stays primed
or if you want to prime it
also with your design you would have to run the pipe up the back of the outside of the tank to just below the water line, then drill a hole a put an airhole, otherwise it will keep a constant syphon if you run it straight you sump
which is fine and works....just a heads upLast edited by cichlid1409; 10-29-2009, 11:31 PM.
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Wouldn't this work?

Plus you have the added benefit of drawing water off of the bottom.
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lol or im doin something wrong HAHAOriginally posted by cichlid1409 View Postguess im just lucky
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i have tops and i still have my water level in my sump drop substantially within a weekOriginally posted by cichlid1409 View Posti run mine open top ,using fluorescent bulbs and never have to top off before a water change(once a week) if your running halides i could see evaporation being an everyday problem.
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i run mine open top ,using fluorescent bulbs and never have to top off before a water change(once a week) if your running halides i could see evaporation being an everyday problem.
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yup wet/drys run alot more risk for over flowing and making a mess, if youre still not using tops, you are gonna have to top off your water or adjust your overflow maybe everyday.
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I am using a cannister. It sounds like that might make a difference. Does the overflow have to be a syphon? It seems like that is a risky setup to use. If your water level drops, your pump is going to fry.
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lol i love my geos and my trophs are gonna be in a 7ft with a proclear 300 with a huge pump, 2 ac110s, 2 modded k4s and a couple canisters
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