Tweet
So ... I've got a problem with cyanobacteria that's proven quite difficult to get rid of. I've got a plan and would like to hear if anyone here has some thoughts.
Tank info: 45 G Freshwater tank with Angels, Columbian Tetras, a couple of mollies, kuhli loach and albino pleco.
Moderately planted, with several very lush Amazon Swords ... though they are spotted with CB.
Lighting is with a Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Aquarium LED - this thing is BRIGHT and the plants LOVE IT! (But so does the cb!!!)
Tank is fully cycled; ammonia and nitrites are never over 0. Nitrates will vary between 10 and 30 PPM.
I do use Tetra EasyBalance but also still do regular water changes. For the past 3 weeks, it's been 15-20 gallons on the weekends. Typical regimen is ~ 10 gallons / 2 weeks. I travel for work so I can't do them daily. Wife and 15 yo kid have been feeding the fish.
Phosphate levels are VERY HIGH. Between 5 and 10 PPM after a 20 gallon water change!!! Tap water has between 0.5 and 1.0 PPM Phosphate, so that's limited help.
I had attempted to use Dr Tim's regime for treating cyanobacteria - it helped but, unfortunately, I'm traveling for work so I can't really do the full, month-long treatment regimen.
I've done quite a bit of research any my current plan is this:
First, I'm working at home all next week. This is key to the plan as I'll be around to monitor the tank and water conditions. With that in mind ...
1. Changed out chemical filtration media to use a bag with a mix of SeaChem SeaGel + extra SeaChem Phosguard. Also have a Purigen bag in there. GOAL: Lower the phosphate levels before start of treatment. My son will be testing the phosphate levels daily.
2. I've instructed the wife and kid to reduce (significantly) the amount of food provided. I suspect that this is the primary source of phosphates. I've also instructed them to reduce the time that the light is on. I don't want to go full-dark because I don't want to kill off the plants as well.
3. I've dosed with Dr. Tim's Refresh (Friday) and Waste-Away (Sunday) - about 50% higher than "minimum". This did cause a bacterial bloom so there's plenty of goop for the little buggies to eat. GOAL: Introduce beneficial bacteria to compete with the CB and reduce their food supply.
4. I have a small, in-tank UV Sterilizer that is running. I don't run it all the time as I typically don't need to. Also, it makes the Dr. Tim's stuff less effective. But turning it off for a week really caused a big come-back of CB. GOAL: Kill any free-floating CB. This has very limited effectiveness though.
5. Once I'm home (Friday), I plan on dosing with UltraLife Blue Green Slime Remover. I've purchased an additional airstone to add to the tank and increased aeration this week as well. Since I'm home next week, I'll be able to monitor the tank and ammonia levels.
Thoughts? Comments? I'm considering adding an underwater/in-tank filter to help filter out (hopefully) dead and dying CB during the treatment. Have any of y'all successfully killed off a cyanobacteria infestation?
I'd like to avoid using Maracyn but that's my next option, if this doesn't work.
Tank info: 45 G Freshwater tank with Angels, Columbian Tetras, a couple of mollies, kuhli loach and albino pleco.
Moderately planted, with several very lush Amazon Swords ... though they are spotted with CB.
Lighting is with a Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Aquarium LED - this thing is BRIGHT and the plants LOVE IT! (But so does the cb!!!)
Tank is fully cycled; ammonia and nitrites are never over 0. Nitrates will vary between 10 and 30 PPM.
I do use Tetra EasyBalance but also still do regular water changes. For the past 3 weeks, it's been 15-20 gallons on the weekends. Typical regimen is ~ 10 gallons / 2 weeks. I travel for work so I can't do them daily. Wife and 15 yo kid have been feeding the fish.
Phosphate levels are VERY HIGH. Between 5 and 10 PPM after a 20 gallon water change!!! Tap water has between 0.5 and 1.0 PPM Phosphate, so that's limited help.
I had attempted to use Dr Tim's regime for treating cyanobacteria - it helped but, unfortunately, I'm traveling for work so I can't really do the full, month-long treatment regimen.
I've done quite a bit of research any my current plan is this:
First, I'm working at home all next week. This is key to the plan as I'll be around to monitor the tank and water conditions. With that in mind ...
1. Changed out chemical filtration media to use a bag with a mix of SeaChem SeaGel + extra SeaChem Phosguard. Also have a Purigen bag in there. GOAL: Lower the phosphate levels before start of treatment. My son will be testing the phosphate levels daily.
2. I've instructed the wife and kid to reduce (significantly) the amount of food provided. I suspect that this is the primary source of phosphates. I've also instructed them to reduce the time that the light is on. I don't want to go full-dark because I don't want to kill off the plants as well.
3. I've dosed with Dr. Tim's Refresh (Friday) and Waste-Away (Sunday) - about 50% higher than "minimum". This did cause a bacterial bloom so there's plenty of goop for the little buggies to eat. GOAL: Introduce beneficial bacteria to compete with the CB and reduce their food supply.
4. I have a small, in-tank UV Sterilizer that is running. I don't run it all the time as I typically don't need to. Also, it makes the Dr. Tim's stuff less effective. But turning it off for a week really caused a big come-back of CB. GOAL: Kill any free-floating CB. This has very limited effectiveness though.
5. Once I'm home (Friday), I plan on dosing with UltraLife Blue Green Slime Remover. I've purchased an additional airstone to add to the tank and increased aeration this week as well. Since I'm home next week, I'll be able to monitor the tank and ammonia levels.
Thoughts? Comments? I'm considering adding an underwater/in-tank filter to help filter out (hopefully) dead and dying CB during the treatment. Have any of y'all successfully killed off a cyanobacteria infestation?
I'd like to avoid using Maracyn but that's my next option, if this doesn't work.
Comment