blows the other basement tank out the water!

http://freshwaterstingray.nl/Engels/Mega%20Tank.html

Anyone know where to find starboard locally?

starting on my 500g internal overflow box plumbing and there are 3 holes in each overflow( 2 x 1" and 1 x 3/4"). Normally there are 2 holes in each overflow box, one for input 1" and output/return 3/4" so why the extra 1" hole for or should I just close it up. Any suggestions??

So I just got a mag18 for a good price but the screws and impeller cap is a little big rusted. I took off the screws 3 just snapped on me. So the first question is how do I remove the broken stud? second question is how do I remove the rust that's surrounding the impeller cover and the unit itself? He used it for a salty tank.

I just set up a 140 gallon Cichlid aquarium and am now looking to upgrade my filter/pump.

I am looking at the RENA Filstar px3 and the EHEIM 2217. Which in your opinion is the better of the 2?

I had both in the past in 75 gal tanks (different models) and liked both of them but now that I am moving to a bigger tank, I need to know which is the better for the 140gal

Thanks,
Michelle

There is something I’ve been wondering about for awhile now. What determines the best average pellet/granule size of your bio-media versus its application? In other words why would you choose smaller or larger chunks of something for a particular filter set up? I know that if all else except average pellet size of the material is the same; the smaller sized pellets will have a greater surface area per volume of material and also pack tighter. So a greater surface area gives more room for the bio-film of beneficial bacteria to colonize.

The reduced flow due to packing tighter may decrease the oxygen available to those bacteria and be a limiting factor. I’m also thinking that on a high flow filter like a Eheim 2262 the increased dwell time of a media density imposed lower flow rate could be beneficial in some cases? I also understand that larger particles will have a lesser tendency to act as a mechanical media, and will allow detritus to pass through without getting trapped as much in the bio-media as much as a smaller average sized pellet media would. Of course if you are using a mechanical filter pad prior to the bio-media—that aspect would be rendered moot as the stuff you might be worried would clog up your bio-media would have been stopped downstream.

The products that got me interested in this question were SeaChem’s Matrix and Pond Matrix bio-medias. SeaChem claims Matrix provides 4-4.5 times the available colonizable surface area of Eheim’s Substratpro, and additionally has some pores small enough and oxygen limited enough to support denitrifying bacteria as well (they recommend De*Nitrate for that purpose in set ups with less than a 50 gph flow rate). The regular Matrix has a smaller granule size, similar to Eheim’s Substratpro media. The Pond Matrix is a fair bit larger in diameter. Both the regular and Pond Matrix are available in 4L buckets and are priced about the same by most online retailers that I looked at. I’ve looked at the FAQ and info sites on the SeaChem website. The only difference I can see is that they recommend the Pond Matrix over the regular matrix for wet/dry applications. I guess you would need a fairly sturdy wet/dry to accommodate the weight of the Pond Matrix over say bio-balls in the first place?

I’ve never had a firsthand look at Eheim’s LAV. How does the average granule size compare toSubstratpro, and where would you choose to use LAV over Substratpro and why?

Wondering if anyone is using either of the ExtraLg fish formula(7.5mm) floating or the Mega fish formula(10mm) sinking


if so what fish are you feeding it to?
Not a question about NLS quality but more of what size or sp. fish are capable if ingesting the size foods.

I Have some large fish that will need to be fed something larger to save me the trouble.

MBU puffer
5-6" Silver dollars
Large 8-12" bottom dweller fish
20" Top water fish


Also if anyone knows if someone local carries either, lmk.

Going to be building an inline air diffuser for my stream tank build. My question is should it go before or after the pump?

I've had this filter in storage b/c it started leaking one day and now I want to start using it again. I bought new rings and it still leaks between the motor housing and the body of the filter. Any ideas on a fix ??

(Eheim Professionel 3 - 2075)

Hi,
I have a problem that has been happening randomly for a couple of years now. To sum up the problem, I periodically have tanks that the fish and plants die in. These are tanks that have been set up for months or years. I tested 2 today that I had the problem in this week and found Alkalinity at 40 or less, ph off the chart low, Nitrate off the chart high, Nitrite low and hardness 250. I used Mardel’s 5 in 1 test strips. These 2 tanks have whisper filters and I changed the carbon sleeve when I did the water change. Not all the tanks have filters or carbon filters on them.
A more verbose explanation of the problem follows. J

A little back ground. I've kept fish on and off for over 40 years. 3 years ago I moved to a new house about 15 minutes from where I used to live. I kept fish in the old place with no real issues except for lack of room for tanks. :) At the new house I set up my fish room again (yea!) and started keeping guppies, platies, bushy nose pleco's and some catfish. Every so often, I come into the fish room to find a tank has crashed and everything in it dead or dying. I also have several tanks that are pure green water. Generally the fish in those survive best (but not always).
I also have cats. In the fish room live 2 who won’t get along with the others. I've had cats all the time I've had fish. They stick their paws in the water periodically and occasionally fall in (I've some BIG tanks) but this has never caused a problem with the fish before. And I don't know that these cats are even doing anything to the tanks. I clean the floor with bleach (as one does not use the litter box). I was wondering if chlorine gas could be the cause of some of my problems or if urine on the cats paws was a possible culprit.
I live near South Post Oak and West Orem (couple miles west of where 610 loop changes to S. Post Oak).

About a month+ ago my 55g crashed. I lost all the fish in it and the plants died (mostly) as well. I had java fern, java moss and water sprite and duckweed. The tank had been set up for 2 years with a whisper filter on it. I noticed the water sprite looked like it had been burned. It turned brown but didn't die completely. Sent up a bunch of leaves nice and green, and then these also 'burned' and now it is a bunch of plantlets on the 'dead' leaves.

I did a lot of water changes on the tanks on Sunday. I'm getting new fish next week. I seeded the tanks with this strain of yellow snakeskin guppies I have that seem to be very hardy. I also got some new albino topaz guppies on Wed. I split them up and acclimated them to their tanks and then released them. Went and checked on them a couple hours later to find I had lost 2 in the main group and the other 2 didn't look happy. So pulled those out and put them in with the others. I found our pool test kit and then found the 5 in one fish test kit I have. On the pool test kit the water showed: no chlorine, very low Alkalinity (40), very low ph(off the chart) and hardness about 250. On the fish test kit, it showed. Very high Nitrate's (off the chart), low Nitrite, 250 hardness, Low alkalinity(0) and very low ph(off the chart). Water from the tap shows moderate (120) alkalinity and a ph of 6.8. low nitrates and nitrites. I use a water filter to fill my tanks from; water from there show the same alkalinity, ph and hardness (250) as tap and 0 nitrates and nitrites.

I'm guessing the low ph and alkalinity makes the tanks easy to crash. The only Ph problems I remember from when I lived in other places in Houston, was high ph problems.

When the fish died in the 55g, it looked like they started getting diseased. Bloating, white fungus spots, clamped fins. I moved a bunch of the healthiest looking ones into a different tank and most recovered with no treatment. The worst off died. These were platies, bushynose plecos and cory cats. Unfortunately several months later that tank crashed and I lost all but the guppies and some cory cats.

Is the Nitrate problem separate from the low ph and Alkalinity? What is causing the fish die off. I'm guessing that to stabilize the ph, I'll need to raise the alkalinity as well.

Any thoughts and suggestions will be very helpful.

So I am trying to pick a pump for my river manifold looking at eheims and mag drives...

So I have been looking for a mag drive pump to try and match the output of the 2262. My question is the gph output rating for the 2262 is that with or without media in the filter or is that just the rating of the pump that is on top of the filter?

hey guys today i decided i was gnna completely clean my eheim 2217 that is on the 20L. when i mean completely i mean clean the media, switch out the floss, and recharge the purigen. so i have my purigen in a black panty hose and you cannot see the purigen at all. so what i did was cut open the panty hose and dump all the purigen in a cup and this is what came out!!! O_O

do purigen really work?
I THINK IT DOO!!! LOL...

Please post on if you run your Eheim 2260 or 2262 canisters with floss or just with bio media only. If you run only bio media, please post if you noticed a difference in water clarity after you quit using floss and what your maintenance interval is like compared to running with and without floss. Thanks guys and gals.

I might be a little late, but thought I should share anyways for those who do not know.

You can turn the 2260 to a 62 by simply replacing a $9 part. I compared the diagram of the pumps and parts numbers from the 2 pumps and this is the only difference.

Part #: 7443670 Pump Cover


Where to get it from: http://parts.eheim.com/display_product.php?pid=1262