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  • Breeding tank tips needed.

    I have fungus in my breeding tank and it got my eggs.

    I put a Fluval brand sponge cover over my pump intake because fry were getting sucked in. The sponge cover has resulted in poor removal of suspended solids from the tank. Is there a good intake cover to keep fry from getting sucked up without preventing solids removal?

    I did a massive water change this morning. Currently, only a pitbull pleco is in this tank.

    The java moss has scattered eggs (all of which appear white to me). I assume that I should discard the moss or slowly pick through it to remove the eggs. I don't believe there are any eggs in there worth saving.

    Finally, it looks like I should treat the tank for fungus removal. Looks like methylene blue is the typical treatement? Where do I get that in the galleria area?

    Thanks.
    Jarrod - Houston, Texas
    150 gallon - my African cichlid monster tank (I know it isn't a big as yours)
    17 gallon - Threadfin rainbows and corys lightly planted
    5 gallon - planted red cherry shrimp breeder
    3 gallon - planted red cherry shrimp breeder

  • #2
    You have to be careful regarding eggs.. depending on the fish some eggs turn white when they are fertilized. Easiest way to tell is that in about 96 hours the egg will get eyes (ie brain develops first)
    If nothing in 96 hours (4 days) then you can for sure say they didnt fert.

    What fish do Jesper have
    180 WC T. Moorii Chilambo +1 Petro trewavasae.
    110
    Cyps, WC Xeno Spilopterus Kipili WC/F1/F2 T. sp red Kiku
    58 S. Decorus

    "The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." -Margaret Thatcher

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    • #3
      No need to toss the moss, just be patient and wait...some may still hatch, leave it be for a week or so, and you may or may not see squigglers. I have issues with fungussed eggs on every hatch, it just happens. You can get meth blue at your LFS, or even at Wally world sometimes. Invest in a Brine net...it is so finely meshed that you can strain newly hatched brine in it, which makes it perfect for swooping new fry, and it is soft so as not to hurt them. As far as the sponge...I only use sponge filters with air hose attached in breeder tanks, not a canister, or HOB...too much for some newborn fry until they are about a week into "freeswim" stage. then they get netted, and put in a 10gal grow tank for a couple weeks, and moved out accordingly. Also...make sure you have some Aquarium salt on hand. As the males can be kinda pushy to the females some times, and they made need it for good gill function from all the chasing around. Hope this helps!
      BEWARE Guard GUPPIES On Duty!

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      • #4
        Yup, you can find Meth. Blue at probably every LFS. I forget what the product names are, but same medications are just Meth. Blue called by a different name. So, if you see something that looks like blue liquid, check the ingredients.

        From what I've always dealt with, it's not necessarily a fungus that came into your tank, it's a fungus that results from eggs that are dead. Just like if you leave a dead fish or uneaten food in a tank for a length of time it will start to grow fungus. (Also like how people food left out too long will grow mold.)

        But like LMRC said, just be patient, maybe do a water change or two, and see what happens.

        Jesper, these eggs are a bit smaller than cichlid eggs, and eyes might be a bit hard to see without some sort of microscope! But sometimes you can see something in there with the naked eye - I've just never been able to clearly make out eyes in such tiny eggs.

        Some fish eggs have more of a tendency to grow fungus than others - some killifish breeders ALWAYS put meth blue in with the eggs. I have read in the past that my favorite species of killifish can also produce eggs that have a tendency to fungus over. Some say to just not dechlorinate the water when you transfer the eggs to their empty (read: no fish to eat them) aquarium, others just always put a dose of meth blue in there. To each his own. I've only had problems a couple of times, and that was years ago.

        However, if you do see an egg or a group of eggs that positively have fungus growing on them, I would try to tweezer them out and remove them or separate them from the area of good eggs.
        "Millennium hand and shrimp!"

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        • #5
          OH! I also meant to +1 LMRC's comment about not using HOBs or canisters on newly hatched tiny fry. I have small fish, which translates to small eggs and small fry (unlike Tropheus, for example). In the rearing tank I always just use either a sponge filter or just a simple airstone until the little guys can handle some sort of current.

          This means that I'm doing water changes pretty darn often because there's nothing to filter it out. But even with a filter, the amount of food you're going to be feeding will necessitate very frequent water changes.

          Also, a bare-bottom tank makes fry-rearing SOOO much easier.
          "Millennium hand and shrimp!"

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          • #6
            You both hit a key point. What I really need is a second tank.
            Jarrod - Houston, Texas
            150 gallon - my African cichlid monster tank (I know it isn't a big as yours)
            17 gallon - Threadfin rainbows and corys lightly planted
            5 gallon - planted red cherry shrimp breeder
            3 gallon - planted red cherry shrimp breeder

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