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  • chemical treatment

    ok, i need advice AGAIN

    1) what are your opinions on products that higher/lower PH, and things like "ammo-lock"?

    2) what are the pros and cons of using such product?

    3) have anyone used the API products for this?

    4) does it have any affect on my cycling process (it seems like it would not because the product says that the ammonia is still available for bacteria to process into nitrite)

    5) is there any product out there that nutrilizes nitrite as well and leaves it ready for bacteria to turn into nitrate?

    ok that is all i have now

    THANKS so much in advance, i don't know what i would do without houstonfishbox!
    65 gallon - ADA 120p - planted
    55 gallon - AGA standard - mix cichlid
    30 gallon tall - eclipse acrylic - semi-planted

    live and let live

  • #2
    Re: chemical treatment

    lower / raise pH.. all the products I have used I have found not to work very well.  The problem is that the tap water (which is what I imagine you are wanting to lower the pH for) has a high buffer content in it, allowing the pH not to go down much without going back to what it was.

    What I have done with great success so far is to catch rainwater falling off my roof of my house into a bucket.  This is giving me plenty of soft, acidic (6.3 pH) water to blend into my SA tank.

    Lowering Ammonia, Nitrites and small amounts of Nitrates - Make sure that you have a filter in the system with more than enough water flow to handle a load.  I follow this rule when checking on how big an aquarium can go on a filter.
    Flow per hour in LITERS (important to get liters as many companies dont list gallons in US vs Imperial)..  Divide this with 3.8 to get US Gallons (yes if you have the number accurately in US Gal then okie you can use that number) - then multiply with .85 for light load fish, .70 for medium and .50 for Large cichlids or like a Tropheus Colony and that number will give you the size of the tank.  Another rule I have is dont use more than two filters to clean a tank.. if you have to use more than 2 to do the job then you should have bought bigger filters to begin with.  Ie dont put 8 Eheim 2213 on a 210G tank which houses multiple large cichlids, when you should have put something like a pair of ehiem 2250's on it.  In most cases larger filters have more media space which is where the bacteria is going to live and assist you in cleaning the tank.

    My .02 dollars worth...

    What fish do Jesper have
    180 WC T. Moorii Chilambo +1 Petro trewavasae.
    110
    Cyps, WC Xeno Spilopterus Kipili WC/F1/F2 T. sp red Kiku
    58 S. Decorus

    "The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." -Margaret Thatcher

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    • #3
      Re: chemical treatment

      Ammo-Lock is a liquid product developed to eliminate the toxic effects of ammonia in both fresh and saltwater aquariums.
      Laboratory tests prove that Ammo-Lock  protects fish cells from high toxic levels of ammonia. Ammo-Lock neutralizes chlorine and chloramine from tap water and detoxifies ammonia produced by fish waste and uneaten fish food. Ammo-Lock is safe for all aquatic life.....

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      • #4
        Re: chemical treatment

        I have heard of people who have had "never-ending cycling" while using Ammo-lock. I suspect that this product works TOO WELL, totally locking up ammonia so that the bacteria are never established in the filter or tank. I'd keep that one for special situations, like transporting fish.

        OTOH, Prime water conditioner (which I am quite fond of an use exclusively) manages to render ammonia and nitrites, as well a chlorine and chloramine, harmess, while allowing the cycling process to continue, and letting plants have access to ammonia and nitrates. I buy mine through online sources in the largest size, though even at retail prices it is quite economical. I use it for every water change, and if the power is off, that is the first thing I reach for, Prime first, then try to figure out what is off and why.

        As for pH products, most contain high phosphates and that can be a big problem in a planted tank. As others report, the effect is temporary, unless you have used soft water (RO, rainwater) the water will bounce back and that bouncing is harder on the fish than the pH would have been. Actually more important for many fish is the TDS, which is low for soft water and very high for hard water that has had pH products added to it -- while the pH may have been lowered, the TDS is now sky-high.

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        • #5
          Re: chemical treatment

          ok for now, i am thinking i won't use any chemicals (unless emergency or something), i might go get prime

          anona, can you please tell me which exact prime product you use, i have seen a few types and wanted to make sure i got the right one
          65 gallon - ADA 120p - planted
          55 gallon - AGA standard - mix cichlid
          30 gallon tall - eclipse acrylic - semi-planted

          live and let live

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: chemical treatment

            First, you must use SOMETHING, if only to dechlorinate. What you use depends on whether you have chlorine or chloramine in your water. Your water district can tell you what they use, or someone here may know based on your exact location. All the other things that water conditioners claim to do are typically unnecessary, even Prime is overkill if all you need is to dechlorinate! But, there is always a chance that your water system may one day switch to chloramines and not tell you. And since Prime is also so useful for emergencies, that is what I use, if only to have less clutter around! I've also used Start Right, Aqua Safe, and First Step but those are just dechlorinators. They are fine, if you have them, go on and use them up with regular water changes after the tank is done with cycling.

            Seachem brand "Prime (Freshwater & Saltwater)" the front says Removes Chlorine, Chloramine, Ammonia. Detoxififes Nitrite & Nitrate. Provides Slime Coat. The bottle is white plastic and the label is mostly red.



            It may seem expensive, but you are only using 1 ml per 10 gallons, or one capful per 50 gallons, so the smallest bottles shown on that link treat 1000 or 2500 gallons. I keep a big jug in the cabinet and refill the smaller bottles as needed, one kept with each tank.

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