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Started treating for ICH

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  • Started treating for ICH

    My clown loaches started doing some odd rubbing on the root they live under, so after coaxing them out I noticed there were some little tiny sprinkles on them - figured it is the start of ICH. Out of the 5 only 3 have this.

    (BTW - I have a 55g. tank started 2 1/2 months ago, nitrites 0, ammo 0, pH 7.4, hard water, Nitrates 10. Feed them 3 x day. Have 5 clown loaches, 3 zebra loaches, 6 Otos, 4 glowlight tetras, 3 neon tetras, 4 leopard danios, 4 zebra danios, 2 cherry barbs, 2 algea shrimp, 1 guppy,  & 1 female betta. I have an aqua clear 300 external filter with a sponge filter, carbon filter and a bio max insert. It is 50% live plants and 50% plastic. Food is fresh, they get tetra flakes and new life spectrum for the loaches. For a treat they get plankton.)

    I read that this could be caused by stress and the male betta I had in there had started chasing them aorund. I got a female for him, but that was a disaster, so he is back in a bowl - poor bully! So, after much research this is what I did. Sunday a 35% water change. (Last one was a 20% 3 weeks ago.) Thoroughly vacummed, took out the root the clowns live under - what a mess - and vacummed the entire tank. I took out the carbon filter, added aquarium salt to the tank - directions said 1 tblsp per 5g water, but I only used 9. Dissolved part of it in water and the rest is in the tank in a plastic container, slowly dissolving. I also added Melafix 1 tsp per 5g water but I only used 9 tsp. And I turned the heater up to 82, where as it was at 79.

    Now the clowns are going up and down in the corner of the tank. It looks like they are playing, but usually they hide under the root, and now they won't even go over there. Is this normal, or should I be concerned?  :eh: Maybe they are jsut happy that the male betta is gone.

  • #2
    Re: Started treating for ICH

    Well, the clowns might be happy about the water change, after I do mine my fish always seem to be more active (happy?). Then they usually get right down to spawning   .  How much time has passed since you added the female betta? A lot of the times, ich can come from new fish (if not quarantined), even if they don't seem to be showing symptoms. Stress is a common culprit, too. Ich can actually be in the tank, but not affecting the fish, and attack when they let their guard down, so to speak. Stress can come from really any kind of change in the environment, especially an abrupt one.

    I'm not sure if Melafix treats ich, but everything else you did is great. You might want to raise the temp a little, though, over the course of a couple days. It's still only the clown loaches, correct?
    "Millennium hand and shrimp!"

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    • #3
      Re: Started treating for ICH

      I really think it was brought on by stress. Buster (the betta)    had decided that he wanted to claim their cave (under the root) so they had been huddling inside the root. The baby would come out from time to time and Buster would start chasing him. This only recently happened with the betta.

      I added the female on Sat. stupidly thinking she would settle Buster down, but after only 15 min. he started chasing her like mad, so out he came.  

      It is only 3 of the clowns. I have looked as closely as possible at the other and see nothing on them. Like they will sit still for me!  

      The article I read about salt and melafix said that the salt kills the ICH and the melafix helps the itch - soothes them.

      Is it safe for the others to raise the temp. even more?

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      • #4
        Re: Started treating for ICH

        What you are doing sounds good to me. Keep an eye on the water chemistry, The nitrates was 10 and you mention some mess under the root. You may need to  increase the frequency of water changes. They should eat all the food in five minutes. I would leave the temperature at 82F myself. The ich will not die until after you no longer see the spots.

        max

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        • #5
          Re: Started treating for ICH

          Like the others have said, sounds like you are on the right track. I would keep the salt in the water and the temperature up for a couple of weeks to make sure you get the ick, it can't be killed when it's actually on the fish.

          You might consider doing water changes more often than every three weeks, the longest I would feel comfortable letting a tank go would be 2 weeks. I do water changes at least once a week. That way, you can vacuum part of the gravel everytime and you won't end up with a messy spot. You might want to clean in their hiding spot everytime, though. I clean the gravel under my little pleco's hiding spot every time because he is so messy!

          I agree that they're probably happy because of the water change.

          Ellen

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          • #6
            Re: Started treating for ICH

            Oh, wow, I don't know where my mind was! Yes, keep the temp at 82.  
            "Millennium hand and shrimp!"

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            • #7
              Re: Started treating for ICH

              I usually do water changes every 2 weeks, but things have been very busy, so I let it slip a bit. I don't usually take the root out to clean, because it seems to upset the clowns, but from now on I will. Or at least tip it over to get under there better.

              Max - I thought nitrates at 10 was a good thing - am I wrong?

              Thanks for the reassurance that I am on the right track!  :P  Now they are swimming around the tank in a group. The little zebras loaches are trying to keep up, but they are too fast for them!

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              • #8
                Re: Started treating for ICH

                Zeros are good. Nitrates are the last spike so without more history I assume there was a nitrite spike and before that an ammonia spike. I do not know if the nitrates were higher three days ago or not. It sounds like eveything is getting better.

                max

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                • #9
                  Re: Started treating for ICH

                  I think if nitrates are below 20, then you're ok. If you have plants, they will use the nitrates. I don't know why you would want them to be 0, esp. in a planted tank.

                  "In heavily planted tanks, BBA will often show up when the plants have used up all the nitrates. This causes plant growth to slow or stop, which leaves the excess phosphates available to the algae. By supplying extra Nitrate to a planted tank, we allow plant growth to continue until all phosphate is consumed. Then plant AND algae growth will slow/stop. As long as a usable (5-10ppm) level of Nitrate is maintained, the the plants will continue to use up the available phosphate, effectively controls BBA and other phosphorus-dependant algaes. " This is from http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_algae.htm

                  Ellen

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                  • #10
                    Re: Started treating for ICH

                    No actually my readings have been like this for the past month. I thought that there was a ammonia spike, then nitrite, then the nitrates set in. In the master test I have it says that anything under 40 is good, but I like it to stay around 10. I test my water once a week on Fridays.

                    I have 4 different types of plants.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Started treating for ICH

                      You're right, it is normal for a fully cycled tank to produce Nitrates. That's why you do water changes or heavily heavily plant. Nitrates are the end product of the cycle, so to get rid of them they have to be recycled (by plants) or removed manually (water changes.)

                      Ellen

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                      • #12
                        Re: Started treating for ICH

                        I thought so. When I started the tank everyone was explaining the cycling, and I thought I had it right. That's why I bought the Master test kit, instead of just using the dip sticks. Although I do use the dip sticks occasionally and if they show something I break out the vials!

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                        • #13
                          Re: Started treating for ICH

                          Originally posted by daisymac";p="
                          I added the female on Sat. stupidly thinking she would settle Buster down, but after only 15 min. he started chasing her like mad, so out he came.  
                          whose idea was that?

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                          • #14
                            Re: Started treating for ICH

                            Hmmm . . . I just don't remember! :think:

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Started treating for ICH

                              How long does it take to get rid of this stuff? I am watching to see if it's spreading and the only others that may have it are the Otos, but then again their markings DO look like they have specks on them already. It is still only the 3 clowns as far as I can tell.

                              I have a couple of fish MIA, but who knows where they could be hiding. I don't want to freak everyone out again so soon, but I am sorely tempted to take eveything out of the tank and do a thorough search.  :?

                              Just tested the water again, and the readings are Nitrate 10, Ammo 0, Nitrite 0, and pH 7.2.

                              There is still a bit of salt that hasn't dissolved in the bottom of a plastic container - maybe a teaspoon or so. Should I add more or leave it alone?

                              Also I had taken the carbon filter out because I was using the melafix, but do you think I should put it back in? Right now it just has the sponge and the bio-max.

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