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Cleaning hard water deposits

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  • Cleaning hard water deposits

    I can't seem to scrub off the hard water deposits on a tank I just bought. I tried using a scrubber with alcohol but doesn't work much. Anyone have any suggestions? Maybe if I fill tank, let it sit for a couple days, it will loosen up?

  • #2
    Re: Cleaning hard water deposits

    Some things that I have done in the past include using vinegar or a lemon juice and salt combination. As opposed to using a scrubber, I ended up using a razor blade. Hopefully this helps.
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    • #3
      Re: Cleaning hard water deposits

      I have also used vinegar. The easiest way I have found is to take (distilled white) vinegar soaked paper towels, and lay them on the deposits. Then take some plastic wrap (I used garbage bags), and seal it down so that it won't dry out. You can leave it for a few hours or a day or so, and then when you go back to scrub it, it comes right off. If it doesn't all come off, you can use a razor blade to scrape off the rest while it is still vinegar soaked. It will much easier than trying to scrape it off dry.

      HTH,
      Ellen

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      • #4
        Re: Cleaning hard water deposits

        I use a similar method to Ellen, tho rather than letting it sit, (I am just to impatient,) I use a spray bottle and soak the area, wait about 5 mins for it to start to work, then attack it with a razor blade. With deposits you are going to have a hard time getting it off without using a blade. Even CLR which is supposed to be for calcium deposits wont do the job. Not that using CLR would be a good idea anyway.
        Consider my posts as general information based on personal experiences, and in most cases, far oversimplified. Actual mileage may vary. Don't try this at home. If symptoms persist, contact your physician.

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        • #5
          Re: Cleaning hard water deposits

          Did a little net surfing and came up with these nuggets.  I would appreciate any feedback you have.

          To clean away lime scale, you need a cleaning product with "sequestrants." Sequestrants capture and deactivate minerals in water. (Calgon is one example of a product with sequestrants.) The deactivated minerals then cannot react with other materials to form scum, film, or lime scale.   1 teaspoon Calgon in gallon water, rinse well

          Hard-water deposits are alkaline, which means that an acid cleaner is the best approach to cleaning them.   Acids help remove hard water deposits.   Acids are typically found in toilet bowl cleaners, kitchen and bath cleaners that remove mineral products.
          · White vinegar, a weak acid, is about 5 percent acetic acid. It may remove hard water deposits from glass, Make a paste of white vinegar and baking soda; let stand, then rinse    even mild or fine abrasive cleaners may eventually scratch or dull surfaces. Do not use abrasive cleaners on fiberglass, plastic or glass
          · Lemon juice, another weak acid, contains citric acid, which can be used in much the same way as vinegar.
          · Phosphoric acid is often found in cleaning products that remove hard water deposits. Phosphoric acid works well and is safe for most surfaces. 2-4 tablespoons presidium phosphate in gallon water, then rinse.   If you buy cleaners containing phosphoric acid in a grocery store, it will likely contain only about 4 to 6 percent acid. You can purchase lime removers at janitorial supply stores that contain 8 to 12 percent acid, which will get the job done much faster. Use a nylon-backed scrub sponge to apply the acid, let the acid sit for a few minutes after you applying, and then rinse the surface to remove all traces once your cleaning is complete. Tough hard-water deposits may take more than one application. Make sure you read any manufacturer's warnings before applying phosphoric acid solutions to any surfaces in your home.
          · Hydrochloric and sulfuric acids are sometimes used in diluted concentrations in toilet bowl cleaners.

          Remember, some cleaners, such as ammonia and bleach, should never be mixed or used together because they can form toxic fumes
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          • #6
            Re: Cleaning hard water deposits

            It seems to me as I flash back to 8th grade science fair projects and DIY volcanos that vinegar and baking soda dont exactly mix to form a paste, but rather foam rather nicely and spew all over the floor. If you really want some sort of abrasive to make a paste from I think I would try something along the lines of cornmeal or coffee grounds, hehe. And again with the industrial cleaners, I think I will stick to something wich will lower my PH and not nuke the tank occupants should I miss some in my cleanup. Better to wear out my elbow than kill all my fish, but then, thats just my thoughts on the matter.
            (as a side note, when the vinegar and the baking soda do stop foaming it is because they have reached a neutral state. Vinegar is acidic, baking soda is alkaline. When mixed they each fight to establish themselves with a compromise being reached, typically in the 7.0 range. Thus your mixture is no longer acidic and therefore defeats the whole purpose of the vinegar in the first place.)
            Consider my posts as general information based on personal experiences, and in most cases, far oversimplified. Actual mileage may vary. Don't try this at home. If symptoms persist, contact your physician.

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            • #7
              Re: Cleaning hard water deposits

              Feedback, you asked for it:

              I have used the vinegar and baking soda thing before, now that you mention it, but I don't really remember how well it worked...

              I am one of those people who will not put something like toilet bowl cleaner on their tank! 8O Even if it is only being used to clean the outside, stuff happens. I don't want to add anything that will end up harming the fish if I fail to get it *completely* rinsed.

              That said, I do use bleach, which I know others do have a huge problem with. My rationale is that they put it in the water anyways. :silenced: If I use bleach to kill a tank (like I happen to be doing at the moment), I make sure to rinse it until I'm sure there could be no more bleach. Then I fill it up with water and add huge amounts of dechlorinator. (Not really practical for large aquariums, but I've never had to steralize a big one.) Then I drain completely and fill it up again with water to actually use.

              My $.02,
              Ellen

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